Not to miss

Edinburgh Castle

The brooding, black crags of the Castle Rock, shouldering above Princes St Gardens, are the very reason for Edinburgh's existence. This rocky hill - the glacier-worn stump of an ancient volcano - was the most easily defended hilltop on the invasion route between England and central Scotland, a route followed by countless armies over the centuries.

The place has seen plenty of action: back in the 6th century it was used as a defence against the Picts, while in the 18th century Bonnie Prince Charlie's army tried but failed to breach its walls. These days hostilities are more likely to erupt between competing tour groups.

By the mid-18th century, the castle looked much as it does today. Partly thanks to Sir Walter Scott, in the 19th century it began to recover its importance as a Scottish symbol.

Visitors enter from the Esplanade, a parade ground where the changing of the guard occurs on the hour. Sites within the castle proper include Mills Mount Battery, where a gun salute takes place on weekdays; St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh; the Palace, built between the 15th and 16th centuries; and the Scottish United Services Museum, which houses displays on the history of Scottish regiments.

Outlook Tower & Camera Obscura

The 'camera obscura' itself is a curious 19th-century device - something like a periscope, using lenses and mirrors to throw a live image of the city onto a large horizontal screen. The accompanying commentary is entertaining and the whole exercise has a quirky charm. The Outlook Tower offers great views over the city.

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre

Johnnie Walker meets Walt Disney in this series of interactive exhibits telling the story of whisky from barley to bottle. The tour kicks off with a wee taste of the real thing (soft drinks for the under 18s), and involves a 'whisky barrel ride' (mildly embarrassing for anyone over 12) through 'smell-surround' tableaux depicting the history of Scotland's national drink, before finishing - surprise, surprise - in a shop full of whisky.

The onsite restaurant, Amber is recommended.