Tours

Early Morning

Okay, it's 9:30a and here you are—The Newcastle Quayside. Beneath the famous Tyne Bridge and a good way downhill from the majestic Castle Garth. Only a few hours ago this place was pulsating with light and colour, and packed with people enjoying themselves. Now daylight's here it's a different world. And as the museum's and attractions open up for another day's business, it's time for an investigation of the history behind the eighth best party city on the planet. What of the centuries of progress that made all this fun possible?

Well, for starters there was the coal-exporting industry that Newcastle is still very much associated with. The city thrived on this business between the 13th and 17th centuries, and Quayside was the hub, the heart of the both the city and the region. Not the absolute beginning of Newcastle's entries into history, but an awe-inspiring fact nevertheless. Imagine how many ships must have sailed from this port over those 150,000 days. But more on that shortly.

From here, the best place to go would be Castle Garth, the (ironically very old) 'new castle' that gave the city its name. Since there's an interesting distraction on the way, a good route to take would be via Sandhill. This area is to be found just off the Quayside, in the stretch between the Tyne Bridge and the smaller red-and-white Swing Bridge. Here are some of the oldest remaining houses in the city; former homes of wealthy merchants, built between the sixteenth and the eighteenth centuries.

Bessie Surtees House is the most interesting because it's the site of a romantic elopement. Here, in 1772, banker's daughter Bessie escaped from a first floor window to marry John Scott, a young suitor of lesser social standing from whom her family had tried to steer her away. Bessie Surtees House now consists of two 16th and 17th-century houses joined together. Admission is free, but while the inside of the building holds architectural interest, the window itself is in any case visible from the street, and distinguished by a blue pane of glass.

Keep going uphill from here and you'll find yourself making your way up a street called Side, which leads you to St Nicholas' Street, conveniently marked by St Nicholas Cathedral. Turn left and you should find the castle easily enough.

Castle Garth is Newcastle's oldest landmark, founded as a fortified enclosure in 1080 by Robert Curthose, son of William the Conqueror. The structure itself was not rebuilt in stone until the late 12th / early 13th century. Added to the site were the Castle Keep (with storeroom, chapel, and accommodation suites), a gatehouse, and an enclosing wall. The site has undergone many alterations and restorations over the centuries - it was considered derelict at the end of the 19th century—and it's well worth the admission price of 1.50 pounds (or 50p for children, OAPs, students and people out of work) to see one of the city's most important spots. Not only that, but you can go up on the roof and see the city, river and bridges from a once-privileged perspective.

But it's getting on for, say, 11a, and you can't hang around here all day. Time to make your way back down to Quayside to check out the Trinity Maritime Centre. Couldn't I have gone there first? I hear you ask. The answer is no. The centre doesn't open until 11a.

To find the place, walk to the east side of the Tyne Bridge (i.e. - if you face the river, the bridge should be on your right), and then look for a street called Broad Chare. Like Sandhill, this is just off Quayside. Again, admission is 1.50 pounds, or 80p concessionary. But again it's worth it, because here you'll find out all about the area's maritime history. The museum boasts an array of minutely detailed model ships, as well as a scale model of the Quayside itself, as it was in 1772; which, perhaps, will help you visualise the night of Bessie's elopement that bit better!

Lunch Time

Back uphill, I'm afraid. Return to the castle, and then make your way up Neville Street to the entrance of the Central Station. It's probably a little bit after noon by now, and time for some refreshment. Across the road from the station is the entrance to Grainger Street, a long road full of shops. On Grainger Street you will find the People's Museum of Memorabilia. Admission here is free, and the museum takes the form of a re-created selection of olde-fashioned thatched cottages, shops and alleyways, as well as housing displays and exhibitions of objects of interest from the region, and no less than sixteen antique shops. Also to be found on this site is 'Wor Kate's Pantry', a tearoom based on the characters of the late, prolific local author Catherine Cookson. An evocative homemade meal can be enjoyed here. Alternatively, there are several other fast food restaurants on the street.

If you're in the mood for another free museum after your meal, head back to the Central Station and then walk (or take a cab) up Neville Street, past Saint Mary's Cathedral, to Westmorland Road. Head past the intersecting Blenheim Street and you'll find Blandford Square, and the Discovery Museum. This is a good place to visit if you have kids, as there's a 'Science Factory' section with plasma balls, voice distortion activities, and computer interactives, as well as an exhibit about the history of fashion. Of local historical interest, this museum has its own Maritime Gallery, and displays the restored Turbinia ship; the first to be powered by steam turbine, built on the Tyne in 1894. In addition there's the People's Gallery, which exhibits many works created by local community groups over the years.

Afternoon Stroll

It's probably around 2.30p by now. Time to return to the city centre to see the fruits of another of the city's most important periods.

Via Grainger Street, you can reach Grey's Monument. This column-and-statue serves not only as a commemoration of the Prime Minister who championed the Great Reform Bill of 1832 (and gave his name to a well-known brand of posh tea), but also of the massive development of Newcastle that began at around that time. The architects John Dobson and Richard Grainger designed streets and streets of classical buildings, all of which are still standing today, and the Monument remains one of the best vantage points from which to appreciate it all.

Amazingly, most of the city centre—Grainger Street, Grey Street, Hood Street, Clayton Street, Shakespeare Street, Nun Street and more—was built within ten years. Since most of these buildings now have shop fronts on their ground floor, you can appreciate the sense of history while purchasing any groceries you might need. While in the city centre, you should visit the Grainger Market, opened in 1835. A highlight here is the Victorian 'Marks & Spencer Original Penny Bazaar', the only surviving example of a store of its type. When originally opened, all goods in the shops cost a penny each. Nowadays they cost a little bit more, and the shop is run as a department of Newcastle's much larger Marks and Spencer branch. It's worth seeing if quaint retail is your bag.

But enough of this consumerism! What of culture?

Just nearby is the Laing Art Gallery. Admission is free—though certain exhibits inside are occasionally charged—and the gallery houses a varied collection of exhibits, including craftwork, sculpture, and costumes, as well as the large range of paintings that you'd expect of the city's main art gallery. As with most galleries, exhibits change periodically. However, there is a permanent display entitled 'Art on Tyneside', which takes you through the regions past. The Laing also offers a children's gallery designed specifically for tots under 5. Art lovers may be particularly interested to know that the gallery also has a Gaugin permanently on display.

Early Evening

It's probably getting fairly late in the afternoon by now, but hopefully—if it's not yet 5.30p—there'll still be time to stop off at Blackfriars for a half-hour of tranquility. Blackfriar's is a medieval friary, built in the thirteenth century and restored towards the end of the twentieth. It is fairly close to the city centre, but how you get there depends on where you're starting. If you're heading there straight from the Laing, best to make your way back to Grey's Monument and then down Grainger Street again. Head right at the intersection with Newgate Street, then wait until you come across Low Friar St. The friary is easy to find from here.

Blackfriar's, of course, was built as a monastery, but after the intervention of Henry VIII in 1539, the buildings were converted to meeting rooms and almshouses for the poor. Currently, Blackfriar's houses craft workshops and galleries, as well as a 'Story of Newcastle' exhibition, which displays a range of scale models of Newcastle buildings. There's also Eclectic, a contemporary restaurant and the relaxing courtyard.

To cap off the day with a drink and perhaps a meal, head to the nearby Newgate Street and the impressive-looking Union Rooms. Here are three attractively decorated bars, including a 'food only' one after 6p. No kids, mind you.

Sit down, relax, and listen to the distant sounds of the surrounding 21st-century city as evening—party time!—approaches again.