DINING
Until just a few years ago, dining out in Belfast meant either sitting down to an Ulster Fry, or having a sirloin steak, well done, served with a mountain of chips. Quantity was everything. Little wonder that Northern Ireland came second only to Scotland in the world league for heart disease. However, the Northern Ireland culinary landscape has now changed. If you come to Belfast you'll find every kind of restaurant you could wish for, many of which have won prestigious awards. This guide is divided into restaurant category and offers a taste of what's available within the city.
Contemporary
Much of the credit for Belfast's culinary change of heart goes to Paul Rankin. Rankin launched his first Roscoff restaurant in 1989 which has since spawned two cafes offering bistro dining—Roscoff Cafe & Express and Paul Rankin Cafe. Rankin completely revamped his restaurant, re-opening as Cayenne. Having discovered the joys of garlic and olive oil over the dubious delights of "a big fry" and chips with everything, the Belfast palate has not looked back.
A fine contemporary restaurant in the city is Deane's Restaurant and Brasserie, where Michelin-star chef Michael Deane (trained by Rankin) wows the local epicures and visiting celebrities alike. If you're feeling very extravagant there's always the restaurant upstairs, but if finances don't stretch that far, the downstairs Brasserie offers world-class cuisine at a slightly more affordable price.
Another thriving restaurant which offers contemporary food–imaginative dishes often featuring a fusion of eastern and western styles—is the Ta Tu Bar and Grill on the Lisburn Road, located beside Queen's Film Theatre in the university district.
Seafood
One of Belfast's best seafood restaurants is Tedford's Restaurant, close to the Custom House and the Waterfront Hall, a great venue for a pre-performance meal. There's a huge range of fish on the menu, all wonderfully fresh and beautifully prepared in delicious sauces, French-style.
Asian
Belfast's ethnic communities have made a vast contribution to the range of food on offer within the city. If you fancy an exclusively Japanese dining experience and don't mind paying the price, the Ginger Tree restaurant is just 30 minutes drive from the city centre and their (truly) Japanese chef will be delighted to oblige. The Suwanna Thai Restaurant on the Golden Mile is also worth a visit.
Chinese
The city's Chinese population constitutes Belfast's largest single immigrant grouping and there are hundreds of Chinese restaurants and takeaways. The Sun Kee is lauded as being particularly authentic and is popular with Chinese families. The decor isn't much to talk about–utilitarian is the word – but the food is excellent. This restaurant, located in Donegall Pass opposite another good Chinese restaurant, the Manor House, is small and tables are hard to come by so make sure you book well in advance. The Imperial City and Welcome Chinese restaurants are both renowned for their huge choice of dishes. The most recent addition to Belfast's long list of Chinese restaurants is the Red Panda, on Great Victoria Street. This establishment is doing a thriving trade. Expansive and airy, with excellent service and an eclectic menu, Red Panda is a great choice for larger groups. Check out their Sunday banquet and weekday business lunch deals.
Indian
Indian cuisine is also well represented in the city. The Moghul on Botanic Avenue is recommended for its good buffet and very friendly service, whilst Little India on Dublin Road remains Belfast's only entirely vegetarian Indian restaurant, offering a delicious evening menu in simple surroundings. They also have the best lunch deal in Belfast in the form of their Thali lunch: two curries, pilau rice and salad for just GBP2.50, served between 12p and 2:30p. The elegant Indie Spice Cafe & Wine Bar in Stranmillis Village specializes in Indian dishes with a slight contemporary twist and would be a good choice if you're planning a romantic meal for two.
Italian
You can also expect plenty of Italian restaurants, such as Speranza, Villa Italia and Grafitti Italiano, where pasta, salad and pizza are all served Mediterranean-style. Pizza Hut is with us, of course, a reasonably-priced child-friendly pizzeria, popular with families. For the best Belfast pizza house, try Pizza Express, within five minutes' walk of the Movie House Cinemas complex, making pizza after a film the perfect choice. The pizza here is quite interesting with some unusual flavours, such as raw rocket with tasty shreds of fresh Parmesan cheese, belying the idea that chain-store pizza is always bland and unimaginative.
DRINKING
Pub Grub
Belfast is a great drinking town. Many bars do serve food, if you wish to combine your drinking and dining pleasure. McHugh's offers a variety of exciting cooking, including great noodle dishes, as well as being the oldest bar in Belfast, dating from 1711.
Nick's Warehouse, near St Anne's Cathedral, has one of the best wine lists in the city and merges exquisite vintages with great food. A meal upstairs in the evening can be quite expensive but lunch at Nick's is always great value for money.
In the ornate Victorian decor of the Crown Liquor Saloon you can enjoy a plate of oysters or authentic Irish Stew with your pint. This bar is owned by the National Trust and is one of Belfast's most famous institutions. If you want some privacy, bring your drink into one of the many snugs that line the ground floor.
Music
If you've come to these shores to listen to some of Ireland's famous traditional music, step inside a bar to hear it played. Kelly's Cellars is famous for its traditional music sessions and excellent pints of Guinness. The Duke of York and the John Hewitt, practically next door to each other, offer excellent live music, of either the traditional or the jazz varieties. Jammed during the weekends, earlier in the week you can find yourself in these beautiful bars with just a few others, entertained for free with some foot-stomping jigs and reels.
Other bars, such as Morrison's Bar or Katy Daly's, offer you live music of a more contemporary nature to encourage the consumption of liquor. Both these establishments run very popular club nights. At the Fly or Lavery's Gin Palace, one of the city's oldest and most famous drinking institutions, you can simply sit back and enjoy the craic. If you like cocktails and are curious to see some enormous Soviet realist statues, call into the Northern Whig. The weekend trade is always busy in bars, but if visiting Belfast mid-week you'll find bars will often have promotions or quizzes to keep the customers coming in the doors.