Not to miss

Royal Pavilion

If you thought the current batch of British royals was an eccentric bunch, just wait until you see Brighton's outlandish crowning jewel, the Royal Pavilion. The dazzlingly exotic palace-cum-playpad of Prince George, later Prince Regent, then King George IV, is easily one of the most self-indulgently decadent buildings in England and an apt symbol of Brighton's reputation for hedonism.

Even the forest of Indian-style domes and minarets outside is only a prelude to the palace's lavish oriental-themed interior, where no colour is deemed too strong, dragons swoop and snarl from gilt-smothered ceilings, gem-encrusted snakes slither down pillars, and crystal chandeliers seem ordered by the tonne. While gawping is the main activity, you can pick up an audio tour (included in the admission price) to learn more about the palace, room by room.

Palace Pier

A grand old centenarian, Palace Pier is Brighton beach's centrepiece and the place to shake off the city's cosmopolitan gloss and embrace its tackier seaside soul. Start by dizzying yourself on a few stomach-churning fairground rides, whiz around the Helter Skelter made famous by the Beatles song, buy a few souvenir sticks of Brighton Rock, then flop into a candy-striped deck chair and scoff candyfloss to your heart's content.

Brighton Museum & Art Gallery

Set in the Royal Pavilion's renovated stable block, this museum & art gallery has a glittering collection of 20th-century art and design, including a crimson Salvador Dalí sofa modelled on Mae West's lips. There's also an enthralling gallery of world art, and a multimedia exhibit on Brighton's history where you can listen in on stories told by older and past generations.